As I don't have a user manual yet I am floundering a bit over starting the car. It starts no problem, but I have to press the fob button (separate from the key itself) before the car will start. The fob is marked 'Cobra' - I presume the immobiliser make. Is this standard? Doesn't the standard car just have a coded key you insert to start the car? I only have one key but I can't find anyone who will duplicate it because of the Cobra fob. Could I remove the immobiliser or is it a Daihatsu fitting? Ray
Doesn't it turn off when you use the fob to open the doors? Or are you using the key? I don't understand what you mean about duplicating the key, the key itself can be copied by any locksmith. Most (Timpsons can for certain) can also clone the coded chip inside the key. The Cobra Fob is separate correct? If it's actually built onto the key I'm baffled and would guess it's an aftermarket job.
I just uploaded the owners manual for the 1.3 to a filesharing site, save you waiting til wednesday, the site only lasts a couple days though. filehosting.org | Download | OwnersManual.pdf
I think barnsley rob already explained it, you have to unlock the car with the cobra fob again if you take up too much time from unlocking the doors to starting the car, otherwise the immobilizer will kick in again. Its an aftermarket alarm fitted in UK Copen by Daihatsu, we do not have it here. I'm sure you can remove it but nobody knows where the cobra box sits in your car
Thanks for that Vin Petrol - that will help a lot. I realise I can get the key cut but no-one independant claims to do the Cobra fob. I rang Cobra themselves many times but there is never any answer. Their advert says a new fob is £39 and can be re-programmed in the car (several Utube videos show how) - unfortunately you need codes to get the correct fob - typing my codes in their search engine finds nothing...............very frustrating. So ....if I remove the Cobra alarm (very obvious under the bonnet) does the standard key have an internal chip like most cars? Ray
Unfortunately the alarms are different on the 1.3 to my turbo, but I'm 99.9% certain the key will have a chip, it's probably identical to my own, which cost me £40 to get copied at a Timpsons. If you have the BLACK key you can add more keys, if you only have grey you can only clone the key you have. I'm not sure whether the alarm will be as simple to remove as it seems, or if it is that's a poor alarm For a new fob, I'd look on ebay - not for the actual fob, but for breaking 1.3 Copen. I found a breaking 0.7 from Tokyo Performance on ebay (uk company despite the name) and emailed them asking if they had the alarm fob, sold me it for £25 delivered. It would have cost £70 new plus shipping/ect.
I wouldn't rush to remove the Cobra unit as the remote also allows you to unlock/open the doors and the boot remotely. I bought a replacement Cobra remote from a company called Cobratech but was unable to code it myself partly because some numptie had installed the bonnet tamper switch on the plastic scuttle panel (so no earth). However, Cobra ( which is a different company to Cobratech) offer a free coding service so I sent the fobs and unit to them and now have fully functioning remotes. They will also readvise the PIN code that lets you start the car without a remote.
Thanks Rob - where do I find the main unit to send to Cobra? I only have one grey key and working fob - can they do it with that and the unit?
I've got limited access to the internet at the moment but I found my receipt for the fob. The company is CobraCarTech so some clever use of google should get you to their website. There are a few different fobs depending on which model Cobra unit you have. Mine was the 3 button remote and cost £39.99 plus postage. CobraCarTech will also supply the coding instructions, for which you will need the original PIN code that is written on a car supplied with the vehicle. If you don't have the PIN code, then the whole unit plus the Cobra remotes you want coding, will need to go back to Cobra (not CobraCarTech who are just a reseller). They don't need the keys, just the unit and the remotes. Keep in mind that the coding process will remove existing remotes so whichever route you choose, you will need to code the fob you have as well as the new fob. As to the location of the unit, it seems to vary from car to car. I eventually found a local autoelectrician who knew what he was doing and he sorted mine out. The unit was removed on Friday and returned with the remotes and PIN code on the Tuesday. As for the lockout period for the remotes i.e. having to press it again to start the car after a fairly short period of time, that seems to be normal behaviour. Bit of a lengthy reply but in summary google CobraCarTech and find yourself a competent autoelectrician if you have to remove the unit.
Thanks for info Bob. I found a secondary Cobra unit under the gear stick plastic console (apparently covers every eventuality including movement) this was linked by a fat set of cables to the main unit which I found under the lower steering wheel cover (two screws and two plastic snaps). I have unplugged this, removed the one fixing 12mm nut and sent it to CobraCarTech. They were very helpful and pointed out I should also have a Cobra 'touch' key, this is apparently an essential safety device for lost codes. I found the touch point just to the right of the steering column. CobraCartech will re-code the unit and supply three new fobs (including my original) and a touch key for just over £100 - seems like a reasonable deal to me - I'll have plenty of security if a key gets lost. Finally I need to change a rear bulb - can't get the plastic unit off - I can only find a chrome/aluminium button under the rear wing which seems to be the only holding point if the unit but I simply can't release it by pressing - am I missing something? - is there more to removal? Ray
Thanks Vin Petrol - just brute force then! While waiting for my new keys I've installed a small rear view camera (£9.99 + post on eBay) if you've never had one - they are brilliant! Switches on when you select reverse.
Rob, Here's my reversing camera. It is much modified, I don't like spoiling the standard car, I wanted it to seem original. The screen came with an adjustable stand which I sawed off to make it flat. I then drilled two holes in the back plate and made two stainless clips to hold the screen on the flip-out 'ash tray'? Luckily never been used in my car. The power cable has to be threaded completely through the car central console/tunnel, cable-tied, and to the rear under the boot carpets. At this point I was a bit surprised to see the rear number plate light and other rear bulb cables passing through the rear body through a grommet but some connectors hanging in the open air! They are between body panels but considering how well made the car is generally I thought it was rather poor - I've corrected it. The cable goes to the camera mounted below the number plate and I've soldered the power wires into the reversing bulb circuit. Put the car in reverse and a high res picture appears immediately (there are two guides for distance and width not clear in my photo). My main car came with a reversing camera as standard (uses the sat nav screen) - when you've had one you can't understand why they aren't compulsory, you can instantly see if there are any obstructions or children blocking your moves. I wouldn't recommend doing this - it is very tricky - unless you are a confident DIYer. I have fifty years engineering and electronics experience and I found it challenging! Ray
Which was the tricky part? My stereo actually came with a rear-view camera, so all I actually need to do is fit the camera and connect the wires and the picture, assuming I don't mess it up, will pop up on my stereo screen.
Really only the screen mods, but the rear of the car is unusual being effectively double skin with the plastic rear. I ended up drilling a 5mm hole through a metal skin to get the power cable and attached plugs to the reversing light (I simply couldn't identify the correct cables inside the car with the very poor wiring diagrams in the manual). I soldered the wires as I found a degree of green corrosion on the terminals despite the car only being a low mileage 2009. A point which is interesting is that the reversing light module is held in a different way to the rear light module. The rear lights are held by basically friction plastic sockets whereas the reversing cluster is retained by two stainless clips which must be depressed to release it.
Looks very neat, although it took me a while to work out why you'd set the camera to show the side of the Copen - it's been a long 24 hours travelling back from LA ! Incidentally, if you don't already know, the LED in front of the gear lever can also be used to allow the car to start by usig the PIN code that Cobra will supply you with. I was lucky enough to have the original card but have managed to file it somewere safe and have no idea where that was.
Thanks, I need to do that soon too - I bought a clear right-side fog lamp from Sakura car, forgot to get a red bulb though so I haven't tried to fit it yet, I may switch to LED's when I do
