I just got my hands on the manual and It looks pretty easy to change the oil on it. I have a 659cc model and it needs oil changing every 6 months or 3K. So, I am thinking to change the oil myself for every 3k service and for 6k service for the filter and oil change, take it to garage. Is it just that easy to do it as it says on the manual, considering I have no prior experience of going under the bonnet. I would like to do it though because its not only cost saving but gives a bit of self satisfaction. Also, which oil is to use. I have been on eurocarparts website and found few different oils and want a second opinion. I was thinking to go for Castrol Magnatec 5W30. Or should I save some money and go for TRIPLE QX 5w30 Semi Synthetic Engine Oil ? Also if fully synthetic is better than semi-synthetic ? On the manual it says API SG Grade or above but I cannot find it. Is SL / CF or SM / CF same as SG or better ? Any advice and encouragement will be much appreciated.
Magnetic 5W30 is what I use. Someone posted that it was on offer at Halfords at the moment. Changing the oil is pretty easy. With a low enough oil catch tray you don't need to jack the car up. Just don't over fill the fresh oil.
The oil change is easy, the filter, not so much. I use magnatec 5w30 in mine, fully synth ACEA a3/b4 (sadly the halfords half price offer has ended). Any 5w30 full synth should be fine. Just be careful when re-filling with oil as it takes ages to get into the sump making it easy to overfill. I would suggest filling it to the bottom level marker and then leaving overnight to get an accurate reading.
Thanks guys. Eurocarparts have 25% discount offer on engine oils. magnatec will cost me about £20 which i am guessing is a good price. Is 4 litre right quantity or what do yous reckon in terms of litre? Also on manual the recommended tyre pressure is 2.4 bar which is nearly 35psi but on kwik fit it says 1.9 bar which is only 27psi. Which one is correct guys? I am a new owner so i have got a list of questions to go through, hope people will have patience with me.
I'm not sure about Kwik-Fit's 1.9 bar... Both the manual and the label in the driver's door jamb show 2.4 bar - so that's what I've been using - wheels sit nicely on the ground and the tyres look right with 2.4 bar. On the oil change front, I haven't done an oil change on our Copen yet, but one thing to be careful about - if you didn't already know - is that on most cars, when you remove the sump plug, there is a copper washer there. Ideally, you should replace it with a new washer before replacing the sump plug. If you re-use the old one, you will usually find that the car drips oil. If you can't get a replacement washer, then clean the old one and heat it with a blowtorch until it glows cherry red - then let it cool naturally, before replacing it. Incidentally, I have read here that it is necessary to use a "cup-wrench" for the oil filter... In the old days we used to use a strap or chain wrench for oil filters - has anyone tried using either of these on the Copen?
Good point about the sump plug washer, when I first changed the oil I discovered that whoever did the dealer service didn't bother to fit one. The requirement of a cup wrench stems from the very small amount of clearance around the filter. You can't get your hands on or around it (I can't ).
dwayner I envy you guys who do their own oil changes - i wouldnt have a clue on how to do it. So i have to pay the $44 dollars to have it done at Toyota.
Great Feedback Thanks everyone for the imput. So kwik fit doesn't know much about it and they claim to be a Pro. Dwayner, I envy you for only paying $44 for the oil change. Oil itself costs more than that here. Can i just confirm when I will be changing the Oil only I don't have to touch the Oil filter or do I ?
That's right, when just changing the oil you don't need to touch the filter. Less oil is required to fill when just changing the oil. When you change the filter too you need to add a bit more oil. When you get the garage to change it for you, check the oil level the following morning to check they haven't over filled it.
thanks Cheers Adam. I just noticed something and I thought I'll confirm with yous. is it normal for copen to be a bit loud when you first start the engine but it gets really quiet after a mile or so? Thanks.
I can't say I notice the engine getting quieter from initial start up. Then I do have a loud induction roar & dump valve.
dwayner Totally normal in the old days, all my cars had a manual choke, to keep the revs high, until it warmed up. With todays high-tech engines, they still have to warm up fast, and its all automotic these days - mostr cars have an automatic "choke"
Service of my 1.3 Finally got around to having the Copen serviced. Not too much of an issue as it only does a couple k a year, anyway! Local Daihatsu dealer wanted, for the 4th year service, £248 + the Vat (that was with a discount!?) Do understand that the Brake Fluid and Coolant has to be changed, but £297.60! Plan B - Local garage, always busy, came and collected the Copen - I provided the Oil (Castrol, Halfords offer on the fully syn) and the Oil Filter + sump washer (Daihatsu orginal parts), so £33. Service was £75, so a total of £108, included VAT! The Garage followed the service schedule, so changed all the Fluids, Service book stamped - result!
Sorry I've been off the radar. Sorry guys I have been busy with this running malarkey. I was supposed to do only one marathon this may and I ended up doing 2 marathons and 1 half. Well done Lotuseater. I haven't had good experiences with the dealers. They charge you higher prices and still their work is not up to the standards so better to avoid them. I am planning to do the same for full service and will try to do the interim ones by myself. Thanks dwayner. Gives me so much relief. I bought my Copen from a trader and he gave 12 months warranty, did a full service and everything so I was comfortable in buying it even though the car had no service records but since I have came here I figured it out how important the service history was. Now any small things get me worried. I drove to Edinburgh and back (about 300 miles in total) this weekend, everything felt oki driving vise, just a bit slower than my last 1900cc car for obvious reason, I believe. Just read it somewhere that 659cc's need turbocharger replaced between 60-80k miles. Mines has got over 53k miles on, should I be worried and how would I know if it does need one and what else these cars need replacing at 60k? I was told Copens dont have timing belts, they have chains instead and don't need replacing? Also I don't have proper tools for oil changing. Can anyone recommends the basic and not very expensive tools (toolbox) I would need just to change the oil. Thanks. PS. I really like this forum. Any plans to do a mobile app of this forum for smartphones ?
I wouldn't read too much into the comment regarding changing the turbo At 60-80k. Turbo life depends on how well it is treated. If it's looked after with regular oil changes. Cool down period after high speed runs. The turbo will last. The turbo seizes due to poor lubrication of the spindle bearings. Poor lubrication results from old oil carbonising & clogging/reducing the oil channels. Regular oil changes & the odd engine flush is a must. If your turbo was failing you'd be experiencing power loss. When the turbo isn't working the car is very slow. I experienced this when the I intercooler pipe blew off the turbo. The service manual shows a list of items that need checking & what needs replacing per service interval. For tools I suggest a visit to your local machine mart. You want a pair of axle stands & a jack. An oil catch tray (an old washing up bowl is perfect). Keep some old newspapers handy to catch oil drips. A couple of old pop bottles to put the old oil in for disposal. A funnel. A socket set. An oil filter wrench. To match your brand of oil filter you've purchased.
Thanks Adam I didn't realise I have got much of the stuff already. Just need few more bits. Thanks. I am watching Mark Chen's post and will pick up the part number for the oil filter from there. I have downloaded the files from directory. I quickly went through the files but couldn't find the service manuals intervals. Do you know where to look for in the files for service intervals off top of your head, please.
See section A2 of the service manual. This is the oil filter, however it doesn't give the part number. http://daihatsu-copen.sgpetch.co.uk/pages/parts/detail/category=ROOT-service/engine=169/part=2799
dwayner Adnan, dont worry about the turbo at 60,000km ive past that over 3 times over - (205,000km) never had a problem with turbo, if you look after it. My friend has a turboed car as well with 311,000 kmhs on it. serviceing is something you cant ignore on a copen..im going into my 9th year with the copen, and it goes as good as the day i bought it.
dwayner I am curious guys, for those in the UK, is it expensive to do a standard service on the copen in the UK? i read that servicing through toyota or diahatsu is expensive there but i cant see why. In australia, it is 45.00 for an oil change, for a standard service, it is always the same amount - $165.00. The big service, which they need the car for all day and includes replacing the timing belt (which ive done twice) as well as all the other things they change, costs around $525.00. (that was for the 50,000 100,000 150,000 and the 200,000. This is through Toyota. Parts needed seem to take no more than 3 days to get usually from the toyota/ daihatsu distribution centre in Melbourne.
Sorry, but I just been reading this post and would like to ask a couple of questions: 1. Does anybody know the part number for the sump washer or is it something I can get anywhere and if so, what do I ask for? 2. Is 4 litres of oil sufficient for the oil change? Many thanks KS
