Hiya guys Having totally stripped and removed any rust on the front wing wheel arch tip where it meets the bumper, lower sills etc, steam cleaned and rust proofed, under-sealed, cavity waxed every orifice of my beloved Copen, I noticed the rust may be bubbling up again on the tip of the front wheel arch less than 3 months since I repaired it. I do think, a bit like the old Italian cars the steel is prone to rusting, the lack of factory applied anti corrosion ( galvanized panels etc) is the only way to guarantee a 6 year rust free existence. Every Copen I have seen has evidence of either recent paint/body repairs or rust. So I think we just have to live with it. I am taking precautions for example pressure washing the underneath and arches in the winter every month or so to avoid build up of mud. Has anyone got any tips for a rust ish free life or do we all have to accept and live with it? Ta
I have had only little problems with rust. When I got it almost 5 years ago I treated the rust on the underside (braces and axle) with a german product called oxyblock, then applied fluid film and perma film. Seems to hold (except for minor spot repair due to rock chips). No rust on the wheelarches yet (will have to check thoroughly after I graduate, now there is hardly any time). Had rust underneath the rubber lid of the fuel filler hole (there is a spring ring keeping it in place, you can take it out with a screwdriver). Treated it and it will probably hold for the next few years. Sprayed all cavities and sills with fluid film AS-R. Coated the metal unterneath the carpet in the boot and the boot rubber seal with rust sealer and paint. Maybe I overlooked some issues, but even the Daihatsu mechanics say the car is in good shape... From what I heard, keeping it in a garage is making the rust appear faster, as the water cannot evaporate completely. Maybe it's just the english weather
Thanks Salieri for your comprehensive reply as always. I have done all what you have done but unfortunately I didn't have the car from new, which would have been the ideal time to do what we have done to provide the maximum protection. Anyway, I am not going to worry, I have done the best to prevent further corrosion, but if it does return, I will do my best to repair and protect again.
You're welcome. I did not have the car from new either, bought it in 2011 (2008 model) from a Daihatsu dealer (his wife drove it). They kept it in OK shape though, all inspections have been done. But they did nothing to the rust Seems to me that most mechanics do not care if they see rust, maybe they think it will become a future business opportunity if it remains untreated. Don't really trust them, that is why I DIY most things and just get the "inspection stamp" and an oil change (oil and filter supplied by me) every year.
My car is protected with mike sanders now, lot of work. The first look up is the holder from the battery..as tip..mine was rusty-- @Salieri maybe will get a date and check...dude..hehe --
Rust prevention failing after 3 months doesn't seem right. Maybe you left a little rust behind 3 months ago? Retreat with a rust converter and then reapply rust prevention would be my plan of attack.
Bemused, the body shop did the rust repairs, not me. I would have done an excellent job applying rust converter etc. as I did with all the other repairs. Well I have learned my lesson, I will prep it next time, and let the body shop just do the final base coat and lacquer. Cheers
Proving my point that shops do not care much for customers cars Can you complain to the shop and tell them to do it again (this time correctly)?
Hi Salieri, well I could ask them to do the respray again but I would feel happier if I did the prep work - grind out the rust etc and they could do the respray. If a jobs worth doing, do it yourself! ha ha
Oh, next week I will prep and under seal the chassis. I have done all the arches, back and front removing the plastic guards, back under the bumper and the front beam (removed the front bumper) and under sealed and cavity waxed every possible area of the car. etc. Any tips when doing the under seal? Thanks
Depends on what underseal you use. But it is a good idea to let the underside "soak" in fluid film for a day before applying bitumen based underseal. Helps keep the corrosion at bay
I spent a long time trying to find a workshop that would care about my car in the same way as I do - and do a proper rust removal / treatment. This place in Southend, Essex are really good and are so careful with your car. They were fascinated with the Copen and are really interested in everything they could find out about it! The first time I went I was worried they would dismiss my beloved car as I parked it between the classic Rolls Royce and Bentleys but instead they all came out of the workshop and wanted to see it and find out more about it Pride and Joy Classic Cars - Home page I know it's probably too far away for most of you and they aren't the cheapest around but if anyone is localish and looking for a workshop who cares - give them a ring!
I have scottish ancestors (came over from the island in the 1500s), and I'm still a cheap bastard DIY ist just too gratifying (and cost saving). Thank you for the link though, someone else might make good use of it
I use a schutz type treatment but one with added waxy oils. This is the small 1 litre can that you attach to a purpose made spray gun and a small diy compressor will do the job. I forget the brand as I've not done this for some years. It's a royaly messy job but regarding. My usual method is Pressure wash. Remove obvious corrosion with a power tool, normally a wire brush, linishing pad or flap wheel in an angle grinder or such like. Treatment of rust with a converter. Then liberally spraying the schutz type product mostly everywhere. Warming the can in hot water before use helps application. You have to be careful not to block any drainage holes etc.
Schutz just means protection in german If you mean Unterbodenschutz, that is just a generic term for underseal/undercoating. I guess you mean the black tar-like bitumen underseal? That should be fine, better than nothing!
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=schutz+underseal&hl=en-GB&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjO44qsttrOAhVLmBoKHSouBbUQ_AUICCgC&biw=1280&bih=800#imgrc=NvI-ONkYCVXZhM:
This is a ridiculously stupid name for underseal But I get it, its a bitumen based body seal, good stuff
Following on from my posting regarding rust re appearing after just 3 months car spray job, I have attached the images of this issue. My misses thinks I am going mad and I am getting really OCD when it comes to things like this with my Copen. Its true any car over say 3 years old will have issues with the bodywork so am I being stupid worrying about this then? I know, to make me feel better and that I am not alone with these issues, Lets compare photos of rust spots - ha ha Most of these images have been magnified and the some of the paint blobs are touch up. It wasn't rust but a tiny hole so I sealed it with a blob of paint. Front right hand top wheel arch/bumper Bottom front sill/wheel arch
