oil change - fail !

Yes you pull the spanner towards yourself but the spanner must be pointing towards the passenger side, your right hand side as you look at the car. If you started with the spanner pointing left then you would have to push away.
It's probably just very tight. If you have a one use a socket and ratchet and put a bit of tube on the ratchet for more leverage.
Also if you set the ratchet looking down with the socket pointing towards the ground it should undo anti clockwise. That prevents any disorientation when you put it under the car because you can't turn a ratchet the wrong way.

Forgot to add, what do you mean by a hole in the nut? Is it a blind hole, like a dint in the bottom of the nut? I've came across sump plugs before that took an Allen key or a spanner. If the hole is Allen key shape that is what it's for. Actually it must be a blind hole because other wise all your oil would leak out.

 

Why did you buy a new sump plug is the original damaged or leaking? It's a good idea to change the plugs washer if you can get one, though it's something I've never done in the past.

 

its a good idea to change your pants each time, but its something he's never done in the past also

 

What I usually do to loosen a firmly tightening sump plug is put a the socket and ratchet on it and hit the ratchet handle with a rubber mallet. Eventually it will move slightly then you've got it. Its not too violent to hopefully not do damage and it saves having to just use arm strength.

 

The hole will likely be for lock wire. No harm in using it for normal use. Lock wiring is a requirement for any racing vehicles. On my race bike I had the sump and filler plugs wired and and the filter and a jubilee clip on the filter as well.

 

when i did mine i used a breaker bar... gives more leverage then a ratchet

 

Amazing what you find on this site!

Thought I’d do my very own first Copen oil change and got all the bits and pieces ready.
Jacked up the car and....... the sump nut has had all the hex edges ripped off it!!!!
It’s nearly round!

Nice simple job gone South!

Have tried all sorts inc large mole wrenches but still no luck.
Even thought about welding something into the damaged nut but that does seem rather dangerous!

I’ve admitted defeat and am taking it to a local small garage who has some nifty hex gadgets with sloping teeth that cut into the damaged nut to grip for removal, impressive!
He did worn me that the extra heaving may damage the sump pan, Arg!!! Hope not.

More later.....

 

Take a look at this one:



Just make sure you have an adequate replacement plug ready

 

Cheers Salieri
What a great idea and one I shall be definitely trying out on some rusted up woodland machinery I need to get working.

I noticed a slight crease/fracture starting on my Copen’s sump pan (probably where a previous owner/garage tried to remove the damaged sump plug before) so I’ve chickened out and will let our local mechanic use his removal tool this time.

It’s amazing what you can find out on YouTube!!!

 

Can definitely recommend Eric the car guy and ChrisFix, they are great guys who have taught me a lot. Good luck fixing the broken plug

 

I can hardly believe that anyone would wind a sump nut up so tight that the edges get mangled, or you have to use a bar to get enough torque on it to remove it. How is it even possible to do that without realising that you are doing it wrong?

 

Lazy ass staff at cheap garages with pneumatic wrenches they don't bother or know how to set the torque on. I like to pick places that have the actual mechanic's bay on show so I can watch them like a hawk

 

Picked up Bette Bumble from our local garage after my failed attempt at getting the damaged sump nut off.

All ok, although he said he had never had such a tricky nut to get off so we had a long discussion on merry amateurs and crappy mechanics with power tools.

Anyway, nice clean oil, New filter, and a shiny new sump nut now in place so I can do my own oil changes in future (tightened by torque wrench).

Just have to scour the Copenworld site now for some guidance on new front disks as the existing ones are rather rusty and pitted.

Any thoughts, advice, links to buying?

 

@Toozalii
Plenty of disks available online such as Eurocarparts etc at reasonable prices. Also S G Petch.

Out of interest, did you use original Daihatsu filter, sump nut and washer ? If so, where did you get them from and what oil did you use. Mine’s due a service in a couple of months.

 

Hi @BarnsleyRob,
The original sump nut and washer would be easily available through a (former) Daihatsu dealership. I guess a filter as well, but I've opted for an excellent alternative by Blue Print: Maintenance shopping list L880 (660cc turbo)

EDIT: Just noticed in your bio you're driving a 1300. I'm sorry. Your filter is shared with the really common Sirion 1/2, Materia and several Toyota-models so should be available about everywhere.

 

@ronalddoes

Thanks. I’m miles from a former dealer unfortunately and, as I discovered when I had the gearbox oil changed, there are diffrences between the Daihatsu and Toyota spec for the washers, so I was just hoping to pick the OP’s brains as to where they sourced the 1300cc bits.

Incidentally, I’m driving over to Eindhoven in January but will be using my X5 rather than the Copen but if you fancy a beer

 

Some generic parts, which are used in other Toyotas/Daihatsus can be found at regular parts dealers.

For example, I have been using these oil filters for the last few years: HERTH+BUSS JAKOPARTS Filter, Engine Oil J1316004 - Oil Filter - Car parts at 123spareparts.co.uk

If you can get MANN Filter, they are even better.

The washers for the gearbox I had to get from Daihatsu though