Well, I finally got my Copen home on Friday afternoon and was lucky enough to have an hours drive from the dealer on various roads/motorways and everything from sunshine to sleet. I have to say it was great fun. Now my jobs list starts: Refit wheel jack and tool kit so they don't hammer around the boot - done Inflate tyres to 35 psi instead of the 45 psi it they were inflated to - done steering wheel lock ordered as a visual deterrent - done Lubricate all the seals door, window, roof, and boot seals (one minor leak found so far at the front of each window) - done source and code new Cobra remote - on the way Fit a Bluetooth stereo head unit (Kenwood or JVC are circa £75) - BT module ordered to fit AUX iput Replace all hydraulic fluids as I doubt that's been done on schedule New disks, pads, and rear shoes - checked by garage and not needed Gearbox oil change and linkages lubricated Chipsaway for a few stone chips and rust marks. In late spring/summer: Book in for waxoyl and body check Respray depending on what the above turns up and cost Parking sensors Possibly buy and fit new alloys depending on budget. Anything else I need to add to the list ? Does anyone know if you can source the Daihatsu logo sticker that's on the boot ? Also, I noticed that the electric cooling fan was running continuously once the engine got up to temperature. I didn't hang around long outside but it didn't cycle on/off like the Mazda or BMW. - not the fan so ongoing, possibly throttle body. * updates in underline. Getting there.
Hi Tasman, There's a transfer type decal on mine that doesn't seem to be in the K&S catalogue - I'm not sure it's clear on the pic I'm attaching. I've bookmarked the website though for when I'm feeling flush..
Did you have the AC on? Maybe that is what makes the fan spin. If not, it shouldnt happen. The roof hydraulic fluid does not need changing as far as I know. At least it does not say in the manual Your brake fluid looks black, you should change it
The A/C wasn't on as far as I recall but I haven't noticed the fan again today and I think it was slightly warmer at a balmy 7C. A local garage has quoted £430 to change brakes (disks, pads, shoes, fluid), change gearbox oil, flush and change coolant, and a check of belts, fault codes, and fan operation. I know I could do some of it myself but I dont have the inclination in the cold weather and the last time I worked on a car was over 30 years ago !
Are the rear brakes worn down? Mine seem OK after 83000km (52k miles) I wonder how long they might last... I rarely step on them though is 430 a lot? It seems reasonable to me
@Salieri I'm not sure whether they are or not to be honest but there is a bit of sponginess in the braking system so I figured change everything and forget it for 3 years. I just gave the garage a list and they priced it up but,hopefully, they won't do any unnecessary work. I reckon £430 is a fair price considering there's probably around £200+ in parts and consumables.
The sponginess comes from the black goo that is in your brake fluid container I always notice a difference after I change it But be really careful with the gearbox oil, it has to be compliant to GL-4 or GL-4+, 75W90 is best.
I don't think the brake fluid is black it's just the iPhone picture but it's getting changed anyway. The brakes pull up and in a straight line too but there is a mild rubbing noise. In any event, once they're done they're done and, more importantly, I'll know ! I've already specified the transmission oil based on one of your previous posts so should be okay there as long as the garage complies.
It's more likely sponginess comes from water or air in your system, due to condensation. Hydrolic fluid is (almost) non-compressible, where water and air are, causing the sponginess you feel. Since water is heavier than hydraulic fluid, it will sink to the bottom of the system and is easily drained at the brakes.
Is there anything I can do to stiffen the ride with the roof down ? It's quite disconcerting in that the wheels seem to head in aa different direction to the rest of the car. Roof up is almst perfect - I made a right turn at some lights yesterday in 3rd and it went around like it was on rails. Roof down was just awful on the same road. All the bushes and torsion bars were in good condition when I ws underneath but I wonder if the bolt torque needs checking on both subframes. I don't want to get into adding braces as it would hammer the insurance premium - UK insurers see any mod as an increased risk even if it improves safety.
You do not need to tell them if you put braces in your car, do you? In Germany even the MOT (Tüv) does not bat an eye. The last inspector even said that my braces are cool @ronalddoes: I thought it was evident that brake fluid this brown contains noticable amounts of water and air, as it turns brown when exposed to air
The MOT should be okay but the insurance company will,class it as a modification and charge accordingly. I'm already having to hold off upgrading the stereo head unit and wheels as they also count as modifications and have to be declared despite the fact that adding Bluetooth to the stereo would be a safer option. It's made worse by the fact that I own another car so the Copen is a new policy with no "no claims" discount. I assume you added the bracing to improve roof down driving as well. Did it make much difference ?
I'm always amazed by UK car insurance, you guys really need tot take insurance into consideration a lot more than everybody else. In the Netherlands, as long as your car passes our equivalent to the MOT, it's insured for whatever premium is determined by your age and some general car specs. Furthermore, second (and third, fourth...) cars are insured at the same no-claims discount as your household's first car.
Other than adding the braces, is there anything I should be looking at in connection with the roof down ride quality ? I have assumed that bushes etc would have a detrimental impact on roof up and down driving, but if anyone has any practical ideas or experience please let me know.
I guess the only options you have to at least stiffen the car a bit is either a roll cage or braces. We have a saying in Germany: "Was er nicht weiß, macht ihn nicht heiß" (=~ What he does not know does not hurt him) Is there any chance of your insurer finding out? If not, f them and do what you want I have noticed a difference after installing the brace. There seems to be only little difference between roof up and roof down for me now. It hast been a few years since I installed the brace, so my memory is fading
The insurance will know if there is an accident, which of course I hope there won't be, and it's quite likely they will void the cover for my car (although they'll likely pay out any third party damage). Or if they read this forum ! I think after the car is all sorted, I may go for some sort of strut brace but look for a specialist insurer at renewal. A mod like this will be viewed as improving performance and therefore increased risk. It may confuse them that I'm nearing 60 and putting "boy racer" mods on.
