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it a wrap?

Discussion in 'General Chat' started by rayva, Oct 4, 2020.

  1. rayva

    rayva Copenworld Newbie

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2020
    Location:
    Aus
    Car(s):
    2004 Copen
    Notwithstanding I have many scateboard and scooter bangs denting my cars body which I'm attempting to pdr, I have some rust patches under the paint....
    Obviously I will remove and treat the rust, what should I do after that...
    Paint or wrap?
    I'm leaning towards wrap because if I don't get all the rust I can peel it back to mitigate without affecting the rest of the vehicle.
    Wraps obviously also provide a greater range of finishes without the need of professional services.
    Opinions please
    I'm thinking either satin green or just full on Chrome for the wrap or candy green if painted
     

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  2. APPLEDjerry

    APPLEDjerry Copenworld Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2019
    Location:
    Shropshire-Welsh border
    Car(s):
    'Lola': 2009 Copen 1.3 Silver
    'Griffin the Mule': Vauxhall Vectra Estate, 2008, 1.8, black.
    Well if you're experienced in wrapping, your idea of re-patching the vinyl if the rust should prove a problem seems reasonable. Have you had much experience in wrapping? I think wrapping in chrome would be the hardest. From what I understand, chrome wrap is far less forgiving than standard wrap. I tried a little chrome wrapping which didn't end well, although it may be that the very best quality wrap is more flexible than what I used.

    I've vinyl wrapped my Copen roof in red faux leather. I'd say it was moderately difficult although I made it more difficult by trying to put on the rear piece in the wind, doh! Ironically, it wasn't the wind that broke the vinyl as much as the temperature dropped belwo 15 degC, to the extent that the vinyl started behaving like cardboard and that's when it ripped.
     
  3. Brian S

    Brian S Copenworld Regular

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2018
    Location:
    Canberra, Australia
    Car(s):
    Dec 2003 659cc silver Copen with boost controller etc etc,
    My bike is a 2016 Suzuki Burgman 300 with Malossi Variator & straight through exhaust etc.
    -------------------------------------------------------
    Hi Ravya,
    Wow, those are two very specific choices! Clearly someone with a vision! Before I say anything may I get some background?
    Looking at the pics, is it the new model? If so, that changes everything. $40k is the money I've seen them asking for one of those here. If it is, and it's gone from almost new in Japan to Australia with rust, that seems really weird.
    So, to help me, which Copen do you have, what year, is it an original Daihatsu sold car or a private import/new model & how much are you in for?
    What colour is it now & where is the tin worm eating? Has it lived by the sea for a time? Auto/man & kms? Are you doing it to drive for some years or are you flipping it?
    Lastly, are the dents serious or minor & are they in the steel or aluminium bits?
    I'm just trying to think of the best overall solution for you mate.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2020
  4. rayva

    rayva Copenworld Newbie

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2020
    Location:
    Aus
    Car(s):
    2004 Copen
    Hey Brian, it's a 2004, silver Copen I bought new from Daihatsu Australia, they imported them from Japan. It's been in the garage for 10 years and I've just revived it and it's now back in the road.
    The dents are minor, I can get most of them out with dent repair kit. Rust is also very minor, easily removed but then will require either painting or wrapping.
    I'm still tossing up wrapping, that hopefully will last 2-3 years then I can decide again to paint/wrap next time.
     
  5. Brian S

    Brian S Copenworld Regular

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2018
    Location:
    Canberra, Australia
    Car(s):
    Dec 2003 659cc silver Copen with boost controller etc etc,
    My bike is a 2016 Suzuki Burgman 300 with Malossi Variator & straight through exhaust etc.
    Well, I'm sure you know the basics - drain and replace all fluids, check for perished rubber, check the tyre code to see if they are too old, rotting exhaust etc etc.

    Daihatsus & rust like each other, so get rid of it properly if you can afford it. Luckily none of my GTvis or my Copen had tin worm. I'm guessing it was living near the ocean. Mine has lived in Dural, Bathurst & Canberra so - touch wood (the bit behind the seats) - no rust.

    So you're buying a "dent pull out" kit? If you have dents in any aluminium bit you can't beat them out - it just bounces back - so you'll have to pull them. Steel dents, have a go, but if you're paying to get the rust done I'd add in the steel dents. Or do it all youself if you're good. You will save money anyway as you won't have to match the paint, primer will do.

    Chrome wrapping that I've seen never looks as good as you expect. Maybe the very hardest "colour" to use. Yes, wrapping is cheaper than proper paint, and removable so there's that, especially if you're just buying time to decide. But I'd be wary of chrome mate. Luckily the Copen has few sharp angles to throw shadows. Also, dents will show up more with wrapping.

    Wrapping also means good luck selling it! Hopefully you plan to keep it for yonks, they are getting collectable. So eventually you'll have to pony up for a top paint job. I quite like the 2020 Green in metallic. I'm struggling to work out what other colours than Aust standard bright yellow or silver would suit the Copen. A metallic red like the new MX-5 colour might look good.

    With the $274 boost controller, $0.60c blow-off valve, some other bits & sticky tyres, I feel like I'm driving a race car to Woolworths! Plus there's the compliments from everyone!
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2020
  6. rayva

    rayva Copenworld Newbie

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2020
    Location:
    Aus
    Car(s):
    2004 Copen
    Yeah I never plan on selling it and since I brought it new it'll be an heirloom in the ev world LoL it only has 100k on the clock!
    Yes obviously if I have to fix the surface rust and the dents it will eventually need a good, expensive, paint job, 'buying time'is a good analogy yes that's what I'm going to do. It'll cost $300-400 for wrap I can remove rust and pull/fill dents for blemish free surfaces.
    Wrap maybe lasts 2-3 years I'm thinking that's a cheap time buying exercise, if I didn't catch all the rust in 3 years it'll show up when the wrap is removed.
    LoL anyway, just for laughs I have a 600 watt subwoofer to install behind the passenger seat and new led exhaust tips arriving next week
     

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    Brian S likes this.
  7. Brian S

    Brian S Copenworld Regular

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2018
    Location:
    Canberra, Australia
    Car(s):
    Dec 2003 659cc silver Copen with boost controller etc etc,
    My bike is a 2016 Suzuki Burgman 300 with Malossi Variator & straight through exhaust etc.
    ____________________________________________________
    Your passenger seat must be well forward with that thing! I know bugger all about subwoofers. Do you just piggyback it into the existing speaker wiring or run it bck to the head unit itself? That's a hell of a lot of cables. Are you an auto electrical guy or do you have your man you go to?
    I'm crap at auto electrics - 240v no problem - so I have a guy I go to for sound, a different crew for aircon & other auto electrical stuff, panel shop, scooter mechanic etc etc. I find good, honest, competent people and then stick with them, in pretty much everything. Works out better than always trying to find the cheapest.

    But I really like the blue LED exhaust tips. As in really like them. Normally I'd avoid any 'bling' as it usually looks shit on a Copen, but these I like. I wouldn't mind blue downlights under her, like on my bike back 'home' in the Philippines, but I don't think it would be legal here in Weirdsville. But I'll ask. Anyway, those tips must have some good thermal insulation for the heat.

    Ok, I just pushed her forward so I could lie down & get a look under the exhaust. I have a straight through 2" exhaust with 2 chrome tips. They aren't welded so I have no idea how they come off. Anyway, my exhaust guys could sort that.

    So - how much are they & where would I get them? I assume the electrical connections merge, then run the length of the underside to connect to the electrical system? I'd say, in Canberra where everything costs more, probably around $220 to fit. What would you reckon?

    Looking forward to hearing more rayva. Cheers mate, Brian
     

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