I'm sure there are many ways to do this, but this is my solution... Stage 1 - Fitting a hidden magnetic switch. First remove the glove box by opening it and pressing the side inwards so it opens down to the floor. Then pull it towards you to remove it.. Then dismantle the glove box by removing the six circled screws. Note: the lock will fall out, when the two centre screws are removed. The clips shown by the arrows will need to be released. For the top clips, I used a flat blade screwdriver as below. Next I opened up a magnetic contact - the sort you would find in a burglar alarm - and took out the magnet. (such as Maplin YW47B) Please note: I has a magnetic switch lying around, so I did not use this exact switch. Make sure you can open it up before you buy! I glued the magnet to the inner cover of the glove box, so it would be in the upper right corner when closed. I then tested the switch AND FOUND A PROBLEM! The problem was the contact makes when the magnet is close, so the light would come on when the door was closed!!! :-(-((
Where there's a will.... Okay, so I had to modify the reed switch part of the magnetic contact. Maplin sell a change over reed - (CL40T) As you can see, at one end it has two wires. One is normally closed and the other normally open. Without the magnet, I checked which one was normal closed. This is the one we want so the light is on when no magnet is present! I insulated the other wire with insulation stripped from another piece of wire. Next I fitted this reed to the contact block. As there was room for the the original reed as well, I didn't bother to take the original out - so that's why the photo shows two reeds. Switch sorted - now on to the light... By the way, you can put the glove box back together now, but make a mark so you will know exactly where the magnet is located to be able to line up the switch
Stage 2 - Fitting the light Wow what a find - Ikea sell the below unit for £9.99. It is mains powered, but the transformer included gives out 12V - making the light strips Perfect. I only used 1 of the three strips, the other two will be used for a boot lighting project.... To mount the light strips, they give you some useful clear plastic clips. I drilled a 2mm hole in the metal work by the glove box catch and screwed in the clip with the screw provided. Simples. Then I tried the light strip. Next I wired the up the whole lot on the bench. I soldered the wires to the light strip but you can use the connector provided with the light strips if you wish - Just cut it off from the transformer. NB - make sure you get the polarity right - it's shown on the back of the strip. Make sure it lights without the magnet present Next I insulated both ends of the strip with tape. To mount the reed contact, I used a sticky pad. In the long term Araldite(R) epoxy adhesive may be better, but I wanted to check the position first. Try and get it to line up with the magnet - you did mark the position of the magnet didn't you??? Right - on to the wiring. I decided that I only wanted the light to work with the ignition key inserted. It was just in-case anything went wrong, the light wouldn't drain the battery - Okay these lights only take around 50mA (0.05A), but I had a problem before in another car, where I left the courtesy light on and went off on holiday. Then on my return, couldn't start the car to get home! [This can't happen with the Copen, as the courtesy light times out after a few minutes] Also - it makes the wiring EASY as it can be connected to the cigarette lighter supply. At this point, I should say, you also need an in-line fuse as the cigarette lighter fuse is far to big. I used 1A. To be honest, I didn't use a fuse holder, just soldered straight to a fuse an insulated well. But if you have to order some bits, I suggest you get an inline fuse holder. Remove the gear gaiter (see here) As you can see below I cut the cable going to the lighter and put in a screw connection block. Remember to remove the ignition key before cutting the cable, else it you short the bare cable it will blow the cigarette lighter fuse! The Blue cable is the positive supply. So the last photo is the working solution. As I said at the start, I'm sure there are many ways to do this, but I really recommend the Ikea lights. Unlike many LED lights, they give out a warm white light - with-out a blue tinge. With the left over two strips you can do something about putting a light in the boot. - I'm looking into this a present.... Rex.
