Hello, I am not sure what the problem is with my clutch. It was yesterday when I felt that the gear does not go in smoothly to first and reverse. This morning, it was back to normal. After an hour driving, that sympton came back, especially for the reverse gear. I have only done 37,000 miles with my Copen 1.3 (2007). Anyone had such experience?
My 659 Copen had it's clutch changed about the same mileage. Didn't have the same problems though. Just the revs rising as the clutch slipped. I thought the clutch cable was manually adjusted. You just might need it adjusted.
First and reverse are the two lowest gears and require low revs and a good seperation of the clutch plates to be selected easily and without crunching. The clutch cable might need adjustment, I'm sure there is info on here on how to do that. Also check you have no mats stopping the clutch pedal from being fully pushed down. Is the engine ticking over at its normal speed when stationary? The problem might also be the start of the end of the clutch's life. Thirty seven thou miles if done around town is much harder on a clutch than the same motorway miles. I had similar problems on a Fiat Brava, difficulty getting into low gears. Eventually i changed the clutch and found the release bearing was eating its way through the release fingers. The bearing had seized so wasn't spinning on the fingers. Try the clutch adjustment first though, cheapest possibility always first.
Thank you AdamK, and DaG. I have been to several mechanics and they didn't look at it properly but they were just saying that the clutch is on its way when they heard the symptons. I don't have problem using 1st and reverse in the morning (when its cold). And the sympton appears when the car is running for more than lets say 10 mins (the engine and gears are warm). Then they said the the plate in the clutch expands when warm thus the sympton gets worse. I was also thinking of fastening the clutch cable. But now, I also feel that the clutch has to be replaced. Anyway, its been already 5 years and the mileage is 80-90% for commuting (20 mins journeys in not so busy roads). Well... if its the time to replace then I should really do it before break down in the middle of nowhere in such weather. Anyway... thank you guys for your replies.
37k isn't that high a mileage for a clutch. My wife's car did over 80k before failure, my brother in law has just got rid of an Avensis with over 100k on the clock and the clutch has never been touched. Both cars clocked up these miles on mixed driving. I would deffo adjust the clutch cable before changing the clutch, mechanics love changing parts, somebody else is paying though. If what he said about the plates expanding is true then that points even more to cable adjustment and not just a worn out clutch. Anyway, let us know what happens.
I agree with this, also I'd consider getting your gear box oil changed or topped up. i'm still on the original clutch and on 63k. The gear box oil made gear selecting easier in first and second and reverse for me, normally manufactures recommend changing gear box oil at ~32k after initial wear so any debris that shears off can be drained then it's done for life. As for the clutch that's easy. Put it in 5th and raise it slowing to try and pull away, if you manage to pull away it's slipping. If you stall right away then it probably isn't the clutch. Good Luck!
http://www.eurocarparts.com/clutch-kit Out of stock on this site but you're talking about £200. Ebay result http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Purplelin...-Copen-1-3i-16V-1298cc-85bhp-07-/400301054666
Folks, thanks alot for the comments. Some people on other website mentioned the brake fluid would affect the performance of the hydraulic clutch as the the brake fluid is used for both brake and clutch pedals. I have never changed the fluid for mine thus it might be that. Plus the transmission oil, maybe. Clutch is around 375 plus labour which is gonna cost me another 2-300 pounds. Well... some say this, some say that so I am not sure which is the right answer. So, I will go for every little reasonable one. If problem is still there, then I will go for the clutch kit. Brake fluid, transmission oil, adjustment of clutch cable... What elese shoould I do?
After re-reading your post I had that exact same problem, adjusting the clutch cable sorted mine I just did the gear box oil as a matter of course. Does the clutch pedal have a bit play at the top before you feel any resistance? If so it's just the cable needing adjustment. 1 - Clutch cable soft at the top before you get resistance? = Adjust clutch cable 2 - Gears hard to put in but don't crunch? = Clutch cable/Gear box oil refresh 3 - Gears grind bad when you try to select them = All of above, if not solved then new clutch. Think that's about it.
You don't need to change the fluid just bleed the clutch slave cylinder. I thought the car had a cable, ah well. That price is high for the clutch, do you know what make it is? You can get a Borg and beck clutch kit on eBay for under £200. Borg and beck is up there with the best when it comes to clutches. You can also get makes like Blueprint on eBay for about £130? Blueprint are I think Japanese and get good reviews so I wouldn't pay £375. If I was you I'd buy my own clutch kit and get a garage to fit it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Borg-Beck...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d33c35d73 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLUTCH-KI...Parts_SM&fits=Model:Copen&hash=item5d36db942d
That second clutch is a good price Yeah it has a cable... http://www.kimbercarparts.co.uk/Single-Part.aspx?GID=AJC^ADD63845^4309^CABL-CA^CABC (£50) I only suggested changing the gear box fluid as a matter of course incase of grind shear as that isn't expensive to do.
There's a one on eBay for about £70 but I think it was for the 660. Personally I'd buy the Borg and beck and pay the bit extra unless he plans to sell the car soon. B&B are very good, fit and forget. Does the 1.3 have a cable or hydraulic? Its too cold for me to go outside and look at mine. I thought it was a cable but jaspark as mentioned hydraulics.
Changing the box fluid isn't a bad idea anyway. Reverse gear doesn't have synchromesh so I'd be surprised if its the oil, but it's still worth changing.
Hello Quartz, The problem is exactly as you described (1). The play in the clutch pedal is alot more than it was before. A few days before this happened, I was doubting why the play is so much with no resistance. It is about 5-10 times more than that of brake pedal. So, that might be it then. I will do that. Thanks. I will update the sympton after I adjust it.
If the worst happens and you do need a new clutch I'd go for that Borg and beck I linked to and not the genuine daihatsu. The genuine clutches don't seem to have a long life if 37k is all you get. Borg and beck are the best around and £175 less to spend.
