1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

1300cc Copen Induction Kit

Discussion in 'Modifications' started by The Technician, May 4, 2020.

  1. The Technician

    The Technician Copenworld Newbie

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2020
    Location:
    Birmingham
    Car(s):
    Copen 1.3, Alto 1.1
    Hello everyone.

    I've made an induction kit for my 1.3l Copen. Unfortunately, no such kit exists on the market as far as I am aware, so I've had to make my own. The positioning of the air box is unfortunate (right in front of the radiator) but it does leave enough room for a higher performance filter to be fitted. Here is the result:

    [​IMG]

    1) Getting the equipment. Whatever you're putting on it needs to have a 57mm internal diameter, to fit securely over the air intake. For this, I've used a 90 degree silicone angle hose that's 57mm ID on one end and 63mm ID on the other. It's about £10 on ebay. This fits over the intake fairly easily. The filter is a Proram with a 63mm ID (about £35-40), but I suppose a K and N or any similar filter would do provided it fits. These are joined together with a 2 1/2 inch diameter aluminium tube section, 1.6mm thick and 60mm long (£5 ebay).

    2) Removing the air box and duct was fairly easy. The only thing than needs to be removed is the retaining bolt (on the engine) and the spring clip on the hose. There's also a plastic peg but it's not secured and the whole thing should just lift off after that.

    3) The temperature sensor that fits in the airbox needs to be removed and inserted into the 90 degree angle pipe. It's slightly tapered, about 12.5mm at one end and about 12mm at the other. I drilled a 12.5mm hole easily and silicone glued a 3.5mm thick rubber washer on each side of the hole. The thickness of the hose was about 4.5mm, so that should give a secure fit. I made sure all the debris was removed from the hose before fitting.

    4) The bracket was a little more difficult. I welded an aluminium section to the middle of the tube and a cross piece with a hole drilled into it so it could be fixed in place with the same bolt as the old air box. The welding wasn't particularly good, but it didn't matter too much, as it's not a structural part. It felt pretty secure after bolting it down.

    Here is a closeup:
    [​IMG]
    I used 6082 aluminium alloy about 3mm thick for the bracket, same alloy as the tube.

    5) The parts were put together and secured using some appropriately sized hose clamps. The Proram filter came fitted with its own.

    The new filter did seem to make a difference to the performance, although I think a duct or a flow plate might be a useful mod to add so it's not sucking in the warm radiator air (and the bracket underneath the filter box that had the plastic peg stuck into it might be a good place to secure it). Having said that, it doesn't seem to make all that much difference, even when driving quickly.
     
    Brian S likes this.
  2. The Technician

    The Technician Copenworld Newbie

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2020
    Location:
    Birmingham
    Car(s):
    Copen 1.3, Alto 1.1
    1 month on - a few hundred miles covered. Seems to be holding up. I'd call it a success.
     
    Brian S and Binz like this.
  3. Brian S

    Brian S Copenworld Regular

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2018
    Location:
    Canberra, Australia
    Car(s):
    Dec 2003 659cc silver Copen. Boost controller, cold air, 2" exhaust, underglow etc.,
    My bike is a 2016 Suzuki Maxi with Malossi Variator, straight through exhaust etc.
    ___________________________________________________
    So would I, looks really well thought through & implemented.

    With the Sirion GTvis I've owned there was luckily just enough room to squeeze a K&N in. Same thing with my 659 Copen, but the turbo factor makes it far more tuneable. You can only really do air intake & straight through 2" exhaust on the Toyota based 1.3 before getting very expensive & maybe making things go 'bang'.

    I've referred "mcp" from Cheshire up in your hemisphere to your posts on this & suggests he contacts you. He seems anxious to replace his manifold with a Yaris unit, not an idea I outright support as a Yaris is pretty sh*t anyway & I don't know the cat status.

    The existing manifold is probably used due to space & it would be very expensive for not much improvement, compared to your work or just putting in a GTvi engine (maybe with a Copen manifold?). However I think your work might help give him something to get on to.

    If you ever stumble across a Daihatsu GTvi's warmed up version of this engine, that might be a quick way to go quite a bit faster in one safe step. It does in 0-100 in 9.6 secs bog standard at a similar weight. Probably still need your mod due to space, also GTvi manifolds are integral to the cat, and unlike here, Copens don't seem very collectable yet in the UK, so there's cost.

    Anyway cheers mate, hope you enjoy your work for many kms, Brian.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2021
    The Technician likes this.
  4. Xapaiz

    Xapaiz Copenworld Newbie

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2021
    Location:
    France
    Car(s):
    Smart Fortwo
    Hey, thanks for the post! It definitely helped me go forward with this mod. Some differences I made: 57-57mm elbow, aluminium pipe with relief on edges (doesn't require clamping), and 57mm DNA filter. Elbow and aluminium pipe sourced from Aliexpress for 15€, DNA filter 42€. The clamps from the oem box and the rubber plug for the temp sensor can be reused (if you cut a hole of 20mm diameter). I chose the small 57mm filter to not need welding the pipe, as everything remained quite light and well secure.

    pipe.jpg pic.jpg
     
  5. sheppardpat47

    sheppardpat47 Copenworld Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2022
    Location:
    Chastre, Belgium
    Car(s):
    2007 Daihatsu Sirion Sport 1.3 16V 87HP (K3-VE)
    2007 Daihatsu Copen 1.3 16V 87HP (K3-VE)
    I've done it by a professionnal, the same one that did my full exhaust system (Weldzone, Belgium) and honestly I'm a bit sad because it doesn't sounds as loud as my Sirion intake, even with the same engine :(
    I don't know why, the Sirion sounds crazy agressive, at the exhaust and at the intake, but the Copen is more "humble" I don't know why, sounds more shy
    Even though she got a huge a** intake cone, but I think for the exhaust it's mainly because the cat is different between the Sirion and the Copen

    By the way, no difference for warm air, the intake temperature stayed the same (approx. +15°c difference from the outside air, while the sirion is mainly 5-7°c difference!)
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page