Can anyone help with a how to guide for removing the rear brake drums please ? I removed the road wheel and was expecting to find a screw holding the drum but there isn’t one. Do I need to remove the metal dust cover from the centre or is it simpler than that ?
Forst off make sure your handbrake is off. Then normally they just pull off. You may need to tap them with a rubber mallet or lump of timber. Some also have a bolt thread near the hub, if you screw a bolt in there it will push the drum off.
There’s usually either a couple of small screws or a centre nut which hold the drum in place once the road wheel is removed. Anyone know which was used on the 1.3 Copen as I don’t want to mangle the dust cover if I can avoid it.
As far as I know there are no such contraptions on the rear drum brakes. It might be held on with the center axle nut, but from my research on german daihatsu forums the drums should come off without loosening it. There is one thing to consider: The brake shoes might have created a "lip" on the edge of the drum, so it might be hard to get the drum out as the brake shoes are stuck on the lip. There should (if memory serves me right) be a hole on the backside of the brake assembly to adjust the brake shoes. If you loosen up the brake shoes it might be easier to pull out. I have 88000 km on the clock and not yet looked at my rear brakes
Having looked at a couple of pics of other Daihatsu models, it looks like the drum is held on by a castellated nut behind the dust seal. Slightly over-engineered ! I’m at 53k miles but I’ve got a squeaky spring or similar. The brake doesn’t drag but you can hear it release when the brake pedal is released.
@BarnsleyRob I haven't looked at mine, but I'd like to know where to get rear shoes from. No trouble finding pads for the front, but nobody seems to have rear shoes. I'd like to have them for whenever I need them. Also, Rob, I owe you an apology. You posted quite awhile back about a phenomenon you called "Scuttle shake", which I had some doubts as to the real existence of. Well after having the roof up most of the winter, and now that it's warming up again, I do indeed detect this anomaly, the steering wheel actually shakes. I'm not sure I'd call it that name, but I guess it's descriptive enough. It only really shows up on poor, uneven roads. I am really surprised that the roof contributes that much to the rigidity, given that it's only attached by the two clips at the top of the windscreen. That maybe accounts for the increase in the roof rattle, which has become annoying and I'll have to do something about. There's something in the forums about dealing with that, I'll have to look it up.
The castellated nut holds the whole assembly onto the stub axel.To just remove the drum itself that shouldn't need to be touched. The drum will just be rusted on or as someone else mentioned a lip on the pads holding it. If hitting it doesn't work and there are no threads in the drum to force it off a puller may be the only option.
@freddyzdead No worries. Despite the climate, us brits have a strange affinity for drop tops so know all about scuttle shake. Our american cousins call it something else. Brake shoes and pads are widely available in the UK on eBay or third party motor factors such as Eurocarparts. Annoyingly, I think I may also need a new alternator and these have disappeared from both sources when I did a search yesterday, so may have to go down the refurb route.
Where’s @Number6 when you need him ? I’m sure he’ll have changed his brakes for something off the A380 or similar ,
I finally got my PDF documents restored following the iOS upgrade and found the Copen service manual. It shows that the centre castle nut does indeed hold the drum on so that’s my next job after I’ve tracked what’s killing my battery.
ADL Blue Print Brake Shoes (Rear) (R90) - ADD64126 | eBay My parts search gives me those. If you have a Copen that is built after 10/2003 it should work. Idk if the JDM-pre-2003 Copen with 64hp instead of 68 have different brake parts
@Salieri Thanks for that. It looks like I need a new alternator as the auto electrician tested it and it’s only giving out around 3amps. The battery is fine and they reckon there’s no parasitic draw so I found a new Denso 977 on eBay for £146. I might as well change the belt at the same time. Would you agree with this version I found ? Gates Alternator Fan Drive V Belt For Daihatsu Copen Sirion YRV 1.3 4PK1755 | eBay I’ve never heard of the manufacturer but at least it’s got a warranty. Also, do you happen to know if you really need to split the suspension ball joint to get to the alternator or can it be done by just removing the wheel ? Thanks in advance.
You have never heard of Gates? You must live on Pluto Its one of the biggest manufacturers of rubber stuff on the planet. Quality is good (OEM for Mercedes) I also have a 4PK1755 belt, so you should be fine. No idea on the alternator whatsoever, if you manage to do it, please share your story!
We must be used to British cars - never had to change a belt since the early Minis. Mind you, I’ve got a BMW X5 in my garage so perhaps I should buy a spare for that too !
@Salieri They can’t possibly manufacture as much safety critical rubber in the same volumes as Durex Alternator is ordered so I’ll get the belt and report back in due course (approx 2 weeks due to delivery and fitting dates).
You might be right, Reckitt Benckiser is a lot bigger than Gates Corporation, but thats probably true for 99% of corporations if compared to Reckitt
Durex was owned by LRC when I started as a bank teller and the back office ladies gleefully informed me what the products were LRC was the London Rubber Company. Much wiser 40 years on but less opportunity
Oddly enough, I've not touched the brakes at all apart from new pads and shoes. The one thing I won't personally mess with in a car is safety critical devices, like brakes, I *did* get stainless braided hoses, but my mechanic wouldn't install them due to the weird sealing mechanism. Gonna go searching for rear disks now, though... call it a wedding present to myself
