picked up my copen to day with a not working roof, but the car was cheap so could justify it im my head. the car has had water in the boot well as there is visibly water rust marks in the boot well and around the Hydraulic pump but ecu looks ok. the problems are the electronic boot switch wont open the boot(has to be done manually) and no sound can be heard when pressing the button the electric roof switch dose not work, nothing happens at all, no windows lowering or sound from the pump,no electronic power sounds ether the red warning light constantly lite up on the dash the boot appears to not be fully shut (the top corners of boot lid near the side windows is not fully down, there is about a 2cm gap between the boot and rear panels) i have opened the boot manually, and every thing is in place and doing what should be doing in the boot, opens both ways all ok, there is power to the roof ecu and pump works when hard wired of a jump pack, the front windows work all ok and so dose every thing else in the car. has any 1 got tips before going full frontal assault with the roof pdf manual and testing every sensor and micro switch it like the hole system is not getting power or the roof thinks its stuck open when it is really shut. ive read through every roof thread but not got any further info from reading them
Hi, new here too - I was in a similar position to you, I'd bought a cheap Copen with roof/boot problems with the intention of fixing them myself. It was more tricky than I thought. Probably took around 20 hours overall - turned out to be a problem with a valve buried deep in the pump unit. Have you got any fault codes out of the roof ECU? (The procedure is in the roof manual) They may give a clue as to what's wrong. I'd try to get the boot opening mechanism working first before the roof, as the roof won't work if the system isn't sure about the state of the boot. In my case there was a problem with the microswitch on the centre boot catch - it was activating too high (or not at all) - try pressing the switch with the boot open, see if you hear any other motors activating.
Hi Thanks I think we already tried that but will try it again while someone pressing the bottom,I think I need to jump tge hydraulic arms as it's not completing the final latching and lowering part of the roof open/close procedure but going to make a loom to jump the lifters Will feed back with the process. If any 1 is local to Bournemouth or Southampton I would like to try a different roof ecu to eliminate the ecu as I think that's the problem
if the boot doesn't seem fully shut one thing to do is open it, and turn the blue plastic bits - they may well pop into place, might not fix the full issue but part of the solution - when my roof never closed properly one time they were left in a confused state until I did that.
I have already checked the mechanical side of the roof and boot, that's all functioning as it should and blue tabs are located back as they should aswell as the manual boot realise cord, There is power to the hydraulic pump and when hard wired it will work, it's seams like the final boot closure sequence won't finish to pull the boot sealed shut
completed a fault code blink test and it has come up with 51-data from roof ecu not recived (malfunction of ecu) 81- transmitting error from the power window ecu to roof ecu (malfunction in the power window ecu the front windows both work fine as they should tho, and when pulling the trim apart found that under the drivers seat is very wet under the carpet and that some wires have been cut. i have read through the pdf but its very clear which works first the window ecu or the roof ecu. im guessing that that the boot button is also linked in to all this, the problem is im not sure what to start testing first as it must all work in a set order ,
Hi superspat Sorry to hear you are having problems with your roof. If you have a look back at some of my previous posts you will see that we have both had very similar issues. Note the post below (at the end) on how you can short the pins to get diagnostic fault codes from the roof light indicator. https://www.copenworld.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=2092&page=2 I am happy and relieved to say that my roof now works perfectly but it has taken many months and a great deal of money to sort it out. When my roof eventually packed up completely, I took my car to a former Daihatsu dealer in Croydon (Kinghams) who at £99.50 per hour took two hours to inform me that they considered one or more of the sensors on the left hand side to be at fault (they could not be more specific). Although they were unable to confirm the part numbers to me they quoted £3361.48 for one and £1001.42 for the other (I presume these were complete units rather than individual sensors). I also got the car back in a hundred pieces. I spoke in detail to the mechanic at various times who informed me that Kinghams/he was not fully trained on the roof system and might only get to look at the odd fault every 12 months or so and although I think the mechanic was a very nice man and did a very good given the circumstances, he was just out of depth and starved of time. However, it was amazing to think that I was paying for his training. I think Kinghams tried to scare me off with the price but I am sure they did not realise that I had a complete set (both sides) of roof hinges, rams and sensors. To cut a long story short, I gave them the complete left hand side unit which they subsequently fitted for me at a further labour cost of £398.00 (this was the maximum budget I had agreed for the job). This did seem to sort the roof out, but when I got the car back the boot did not close properly and the gaps around the boot were massive on one side. After many hours of ‘trial and error’, I found that the boot close mechanism needed lubrication and the pins on one of the electrical connectors (near the boot well where it fills up with water) were corroded. I sorted these and adjusted the position of the recently fitted left hand assembly (easily done with three bolts) to get the gap looking better and everything started working reliably for the first time since I purchased the car (although the gaps still do not look perfect). All prices were exclusive of V.A.T. @ 20% by the way. I think the problem you will have is finding out exactly how the system works as in my experience each component has implications on another component. Maybe you get the roof adjustment correct but if the boot mechanism is still wrong, nothing works and trying to follow the workshop manual without first having suitable Daihatsu training and obtaining the correct diagnostic tools is almost impossible. Even trying to measure and find out how a sensor works is bad enough. I now have a set of spare parts available consisting of: complete right hand assembly (roof hinges, rams and sensors), a complete (but suspect) left hand assembly, metal top roof ECU, hydraulic roof pump motor, tailgate boot lock mechanism and motor plus an extra boot lock motor. I could sell direct or put on eBay if anyone is interested? Anyway, I wish you the best of luck and hope that you get the roof sorted out ASAP - I know how just how frustrating this can be! Best regards KS
Hi KS I have run the diagnostic blink test earthing the obd2 plug and it's saying both the roof ecu,s in the boot are not working, I've managed to get both the ecus today and collecting them on Wednesday, before fitting them I'm going to gut the interior totally from trim,seats and carpets and run a few continuity tests from the boot and roof switch and to dry the car out completely and check the looms,also reconnect the broken wires that run to sencor under the seats and anything else that's looks suspect My latches both work and lock the corners of the boot as they should and all the micro sensors seam to make good contact , I believe it's down to water damage as the boot well is rusty from having water sat in it and under the drivers seat is very wet. If I can solve it going to have to follow the manual from the start and test the hole system bit by bit. I will bare it in mind as mite need a boot lock system as mine is not working but I feel it's all linked in with the roof not working but who knows, I will be a fully trained copen roof expert by the time I've finished with it
cheers mate, been out with roof down today, just feels a bit slow so going to have to change that very soon
Do you mean the roof is slow or the car? Our Copen always feels quick/sporty (especially as I don't drive it very often) and it has been running like a dream since I changed the air box contraption it had on it to a proper induction style kit. https://www.copenworld.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=1555&highlight=induction It also has a dump/blow off valve fitted which makes loud swishing noises that added to the sporty exhaust tone and the high reving engine makes a rather nice sounding combination. https://www.copenworld.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=1389&highlight=dump+valve&page=2 KS
the car is slow :-((, i had a daihatsu mira avanzato l200s, the older box version that was running around 130bhp so the copen feels very slow. ive already fitted a home built custom induction kit and a sard dump valve along with a blitz dsbc spec r boost controller, trying to find a bigger intercooler that will fit behind the bumper with out the need to to cut to much away and keep the A/C. got 1 alredy that looks good and getting a Renault 5 gt turbo intercooler to mock fit to see if i can make it work along with some home built pipe work once ive sorted that can get 2" exhaust made up and make/fit a decat, new fuel reg, the problem with the turbos are they are to small for the car and even on standard boost they drop of higher in the revs so will be building a custom turbo out of a hybrid ive already got, then it should be good for 120bhp
have good insight in to the 659cc turbo engines as its the 5th kei car ive had with the 659cc engine in, but changing a bulb on the copen looks like a lot of work inless you have midget hands
