1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

DIY - Rear wheel bearings change

Discussion in 'Problems, Fixes, Tips...' started by dunf, Mar 21, 2015.

  1. dunf

    dunf Copenworld Regular

    Oct 21, 2013
    Fife, Scotland

    Got an advisory on our offside rear wheel bearing last MOT so finally got around to replacing both rears. It was really pretty straightforward and managed to finish doing both sides in about half an hour. Thought i would post up a guide and some pics to help anyone else out.

    First off, you will need:

    2 rear wheel bearing kits (each have 1 inner brg, 1 outer brg, grease pouch, split pin)
    trolley jack or ramp
    Wheel nut socket and ratchet
    Pry bar or screwdriver
    pliers / snips
    19mm deep socket
    punch / drifts
    degreaser and rags
    heat source
    torque wrench

    First - loosen the wheel nuts a little and jack up the car.


    pry off the dust cap


    undo the castle nut using the 19mm deep socket and remove the hub. Remember to release the handbrake first! Watch out for brake dust falling out.


    Take the hub and put it on a couple of wooden blocks to allow space underneath for the bearing to fall out. Use a punch to knock out the large inner bearing. Just work it around best you can knocking it out in stages. This is the only time you can hit a bearing on the inner race - it will destroy the bearing so only do it when you are replacing it anyway.


    When the bearing falls out, the spacer will fall out too. Its tapered so careful you put it back in the correct way around later.


    Turn the hub over and knock out the outer bearing, then clean and degrease the whole hub. I use brake cleaner. Be careful and not damage the speed sensor ring (the perforated ring around the hub boss) as its quite fragile.


    Ideally, have your bearings kept in the freezer the night before. Now you can also use a heat source to warm the hub. I use a hot air gun. Blow torch would work too. Target it around the bearing housing. Lightly grease the new inner bearing and using a suitable drift, gently knock the bearing home. You will hear the noise of the knocking change when it seats.


    Turn the hub over and insert the spacer (thicker end to the inside of hub). Cut a tiny corner off the grease pouch and this way you can direct and squeeze the grease in around the spacer.


    Finally grease up the outer bearing and drift into place same as the inner.
    Thats you done. Now just fit the hub back onto the car. Refit the washer and the castle nut lined up so you can access the hole for the split pin. I couldn't find a torque figure for this nut so checked them before i removed them and they were about 70lb?

    Fit a NEW split pin. Bend up the outer leg against the spindle end and push back the inner leg. Trim both to suit. Clean and regrease the dust cap and refit. Dont hit it hard or it will deform.


    Finally refit the wheel. A smear of copper grease around the studs on the wheel mating surface will ensure it comes off again easily next time. Hand tighten the wheel nuts. Lower the car off the jack and torque the wheel nuts up. Job done.

    Repeat for the other side.

    I think it took longer to do this write up than do the job! :rolleyes:

    Hope this may help someone.
  2. Number6

    Number6 Copenworld Veteran

    Apr 25, 2013
    2005 0.7L Copen
    So that's how you remove the drums! Any photos of the brake shoes?
  3. DaG

    DaG Copenworld Guru

    Jul 11, 2012
    Copen 1.3
    Nice tutorial it's good to know it's an easy job.
    There was a time when every car I owned had wheel bearing problems which required replacement.
    I've always found sockets good for drifting bearings in with you can usually find one the right size to fit the outer race of the bearing. Biggest problem on a front wheel drive car is usually undoing the front hub nut. They are tightened to a massive torque and are best undone with the car wheel on the ground.

Share This Page